Cookbook Club: Everyday Cakes
Talking cookbooks with Polina Chesnakova and making her Golden Milk Tres Leches Cake.
From the Republic of Georgia to Rhode Island to Seattle - Polina Chesnakova’s evolving appetite and love of her family’s multicultural heritage helped define her role in the kitchen. With a passion for food writing and recipe development, Polina created her website, Chesnok, to pay tribute to her roots.
When she’s not writing her own cookbooks (Hot Cheese, Chronicle Books 2020 and Everyday Cakes, Sasquatch Books 2021), Polina can be found selling them and teaching cooking classes as the Culinary Director at Book Larder, Seattle’s premier cookbook shop (a dream job, if you ask me).
In her latest, Polina explores cakes of all kinds. Everyday Cakes is the best excuse for whipping up a simple loaf cake or sprinkle-covered sheet cake to turn any occasion into a celebration. From the Flourless Chocolate Cake with Port Cherries to the Sugared Jelly Donut Bundt Cake or the Earl Grey Tea Cake, there is something for all of life’s sweet cravings.
Tessa Huff: Why did you decide to write this book?
Polina Chesnakova: I felt like there were a lot of cake books out there that focused on cake decorating or layered cakes with 4-5 different components. I wanted to write a collection of simple, straightforward recipes that a reader could flip through and - no matter the mood, occasion, or craving - find a cake that would inspire them to get baking. Cakes that felt achievable, yet simple at the same time. Because every day deserves a sweet pop of joy!
TH: Which recipe should readers try first?
PC: Oh gosh, which one to choose?! I love my "Mama's Rum Raisin Bundt Cake." It has this velvety crumb that's studded with raisins and walnuts, and the butter-rum glaze that soaks through the bottom and top leaves it extra boozy and moist. It's definitely one of those cut-and-comeback to type of cakes, whether it's just for home or for a crowd.
The Golden Milk Tres Leches Cake is also really special and I'm proud of how it turned out. The sponge has just enough integrity to be soaked through with the electric yellow tres leches mixture, while still maintaining a good bite. I have friends who still talk about it, even though it's been 2 years since they've tried it!
TH: Can you name a must-have ingredient or signature flavor that you use in your recipes often?
PC: I *love* cardamom and had to refrain from putting it in everything, ha! But in all seriousness, I think most American cakes are too dense and sweet, so I try to strike a perfect balance.
My cakes are punchy and inventive in flavor, not too sweet, and well-seasoned with salt to amplify said-flavors and balance sweetness. And of course, the crumb has to be on point too. Classics that are elevated and nuanced.
TH: What keeps you inspired and creative in the kitchen?
PC: I'm the culinary director at a cookbook store - Book Larder in Seattle - so I'm always surrounded and inspired by other cookbooks, as well as the instructors that come through our teaching kitchen. I love seeing how other bakers and cooks are playing around in the kitchen with flavors, techniques, etc.
TH: What were you listening to or reading at the time of writing this book?
PC: The Flavor Bible by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen A. Page and The Flavor Thesaurus by Niki Selengut were great reference books when I was dreaming up all the cakes for the book. To learn more about the science and how-to's behind cakes, I turned to Rose Levy Berenbaum's The Cake Bible, Shirley Corriher's BakeWise, Cook's Illustrated Baking Book, and of course your books, Tessa!
David Lebovitz's Ready for Dessert, Dorie Greenspan's Baking, Claudia Fleming's The Last Course, the Tartine book, and Gina DePalma's Dolce Italiano were also- and still are- on the shelf because they're classics!
TH: Walk into a reader’s home and where can you find your book? Displayed on a coffee table, next to the bed for late-night studying, or splattered with batter in the kitchen?
PC: Splattered with batter in the kitchen because it's a book for everyday after all!
TH: What is one important key to success for home bakers wanting to try new recipes?
PC: I have a whole section of baking tips at the beginning of my book, but I'd say consistency and accuracy is key when it comes to baking. So, with that in mind:
Get a scale! They're pretty inexpensive and they are the easiest way to up your baking game. Not only will you bake with confidence knowing you're using the exact amounts called for in the recipe, but it will also streamline your ingredient prep.
Make sure you thoroughly pre-heat your oven. I have found that with most ovens, it takes a full 30 to 45 minutes to properly preheat--and even then, they might be inaccurate. I highly recommend getting an oven thermometer (also inexpensive) if you want to know what's going on in there. And if you find out that your oven is off, it's super easy to recalibrate it!
Golden Milk Tres Leches Cake
I’ve tried a few Tres Leches Cake before, but never have I ever wanted to keep spooning this moist, custardy cake into my mouth forever. Polina absolutely nailed the texture with this recipe. Using coconut milk, turmeric, and other warming spices the flavor is taken to the next level. I can’t wait to make this again! - Tessa Huff
Now let’s get to the recipe…
A traditional Latin American cake recipe with a turmeric twist. The sponge cake is light, fluffy, and yields to the three-milk mixture. You might think that the liquids won’t fit, but trust the process. Allow the cake to set overnight in the refrigerator before topping with pillowy clouds of sweetened whipped cream.
Recipe published with permission from the author and Sasquatch Books. Do not reprint.
For the Sponge Cake
The Ingredients:
6 eggs, at room temperature
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 ⅓ cups (175g) all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or avocado
The Method:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of a 9 X 13-inch glass baking dish with parchment paper.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the eggs and sugar together on medium-high speed until thick and pale in color, about 10 minutes. When ready, you should be able to lift the whisk up and draw a figure eight with the batter before it settles back into the mixture. Add the vanilla and mix to combine.
Meanwhile, whisk together the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt together in a separate mixing bowl.
When the egg mixture is done mixing, stop the mixer and use a large rubber spatula to fold in about half of the flour mixture. Repeat with the remaining flour, making sure not to overmix and deflate the batter.
Drizzle in the oil and fold to thoroughly combine.
Tip the batter into the baking pan and gently spread it out until smooth. Bake the cake until golden and the surface springs back when lightly pressed, 30 to 35 minutes. Allow to cool on a wire rack.
Meanwhile, make the Tres Leches (recipe to follow).
Once the cake has cooled, run a knife around the edges of the pan and invert the cake onto a cutting board. Peel off the parchment paper and return the cake back to the pan. Use a serrated knife to gently cut and peel away the top crust of the cake (this will help the tres leches soak completely into the cake).
Gradually pour the prepared tres leches over the top of the cake. Allow the cake to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes, then cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.
Up to a few hours before serving, make and spread the whipped cream all over the top of the cake. Dust with cinnamon.
Serve the cake immediately or refrigerate until ready. The cake will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
For the Tres Leches
The Ingredients:
1 (13.5 ounce) can light coconut milk
1 ½ cups (355ml) whole milk
2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste or extract
1 ½ teaspoons ground turmeric
1 ¼ teaspoons ground ginger
½ teaspoon lightly packed freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon kosher salt
4 to 5 whole black peppercorns
3 cardamom pods, crushed or ½ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 cinnamon stick or ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 (14 ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
The Method:
While the cake is baking, put all of the ingredients except the condensed milk in a medium saucepan. Whisk together to combine and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 3 minutes.
Remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 1 hour (or until the cake has cooled).
Remove the cinnamon stick and whisk in the condensed milk. Transfer the mixture to a small pitcher or spouted measuring cup for easy pouring.
For the Whipped Cream
The Ingredients:
2 cups (475ml) cold heavy cream
2 tablespoons honey or granulated sugar
Ground cinnamon, for dusting
The Method:
Using a stand or hand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream and honey together on medium-high speed until it holds medium-stiff peaks.
Baker’s Notes:
Don’t skip removing the top crust of the cake. It helps all of the liquid absorb into the sponge. Once started, it should be fairly easy to peel off.
It may seem like a lot of liquid, but pour all of it over the cake.
The cake will need to set for at least 6 hours, so plan accordingly.
Serving and Storage:
Serve the cake immediately or refrigerate until ready. The cake will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.